Steelhead fishing on Bell Irving River
Continuing from on from Malbaie River Outfitters on the east coast of Canada Henry and I flew from Gaspe to Montreal and on to Vancouver on Air Canada. It took about five hours and was pretty easy. Vancouver airport was a big step up after Montreal, and Henry and I quickly connected with our Air Canada Jazz flight to Smithers. The looking out of the window I was amazed at just quite how much empty space there is up here. British Columbia is approximately twice the size of the UK, and only with a smattering of people. The land below was mostly forest punctuated with the odd river or lake. The landing in Smithers is interesting as the town is located in a deep valley surrounded by huge peaks. We collected our baggage from the single conveyor belt, had a good look at the 1000 lb grizzly bear in the glass case, and collected our hire car from National car. National are the only hire car company that have offices in Smithers and Terrrace and allow you to pick up from one and drop to the other if you so desire.
We drove down main street to find food, and then headed north out of town to Julian Smith’s house, Zorrino Lodge. Located on the banks of the Bulkley River 24 km outside town, Zorrino Lodge is a recently renovated property and is extremely comfortable. It has four bedrooms, would sleep 10 at max capacity, and has all mod cons. When we woke up the following morning the scenery was breathtaking, tall trees, snow capped mountains and the inviting waters of the Bulkley flowing at the bottom of the garden. Our first glimpse of this area in the daylight. We then drove back to Smithers which took 20 minutes, and picked Michael Joynson up from his flight from Vancouver. After a brief stop at Oscar’s tackle shop in Main Street to load up on flies we began the 4 hour drive north to Bell 2 lodge. It is not complicated as there are very few roads, and once passed Kitwanga the road heads over the Skeena Bridge and north into the wilderness. It was a stunning drive, punctuated by seeing our first bear wandering down the size of the road.
Bell 2 is marked on the map, and the nearest civilisation on either side of this spot is about 100 km. The lodge comprises of a central building surrounded by 6 outlying chalets, each with four rooms, and will take 30 at maximum capacity. The central building has a restaurant, kitchens, reception area, guides dining room, drying room, and upstairs a bar, pool room and large sitting area with a huge television and satellite.
Angelica the manageress met us at the front desk on arrival and almost the first question was “are you hungry” which was exactly what we wanted to be asked at that point! She issued us with our fishing licences, and showed us to our rooms. Bell 2 is a 4 star fishing and Helli Skiing operation, and the standard of the operation is top notch. The rooms are like hotel rooms, ensuite bathrooms, huge queen sized beds, thick pile carpets, Finnish soap stone wood burning stove, and a high speed broad band internet connection and phone. Very nice. As we wanted to get fishing one of the guides issued us with radios, pepper spray for bears, and showed us where we could go on the Bell Irving River just on the other side of the lodge. This was a great way to loosen up the shoulders and get the casting rhythm going before the following day. Michael actually hooked a fish that first evening, and as five o’clock came round we began to hear the thump of helicopter blades as those who had been to rivers further a field began to return. As we wandered back up we met a couple of returning clients coming of one of the helicopters, and watched the guide remove the rods from specially designed rod racks on the skids of the chopper. These were then taking straight into the drying room to go on the racks there, so no breaking down is necessary while you are staying.
That evening we met Geoff Straight who is the overall manager up here, and also one of the fishing guides. Bell 2 has a huge range as they have helicopters. They fish the Nass, Damdochax, and the Bell Irving primarily, but there are other smaller rivers such as the Meziadin they can access as well if the weather does not look like it is going according to plan, or rivers are blown out. The Bell Irving is on the doorstep and here they use a couple of very high quality jet boats to access the huge area of river they fish which is about 42 km.
The first day out on the Bell Irving Geoff took us personally. Breakfast was at 0700 with clients ready to leave by 0815. We drove down to the put in (where the boats are put into the river) which takes no more than 15 minutes down the road. Michael and I starting fishing while Geoff put the boat into the river and made it ready. The boats are flat bottomed aluminium river craft about 16 feet in length and powered by a 60 horsepower Yamaha jet pump. They are solid, and are very safe. We ran down the river for about 25 minutes to one of the lower pools, and then slowly made our way back up river. The river has some fantastic long sweeping bends, but fishing was tough. Geoff dropped Henry and I off and I fished down a deep slow run that I felt I would hook a fish out of any minute. Henry was on the bank fiddling with the bear banger that Geoff had entrusted him with, and I was just thinking I hope he does not shoot himself when below us Michael hooked a nice fish of about 11lbs right in the seam of two currents. The fish pulled hard and gave him a good scrap before Geoff slipped the net under him. The first steelhead of the trip! By the time Henry and I had made our way down to join them Geoff had a fire going on the bank, and lunch laid out including piping hot chilli con carne. Perfect when you are feeling cold. The river was clear, but cold, and a reasonable flow, so we were fishing two handed rods and type 3 sink tips to get the flies down. Fly of choice, a purple and pink marabou “Popsicle” on a 1/0, enough to give any Scottish ghillie a heart attack.
On the Bell Irving it is imperative to let the fly swing right into the bank and leave it hanging for as long as ten seconds or so. Frequently these fish will take the fly on the dangle. The other thing I found interesting was that the guides recommended making a very square cast, then moving two steps before allowing the fly to swing. After the fly had been allowed to dangle it was stripped back before recasting. The concept behind this was to get the fly down in the water before allowing it to swing rapidly across the pool. This technique is almost the opposite to normal Atlantic Salmon fishing unless fishing very fast water in Norway for example. I managed to catch a lovely Dolly Varden of about 5lbs to avoid the skunk before we headed home at about 1730. Spirits were high that evening as some other members of the party had managed steelhead over 20lbs which is a fish of a life time.
The next two days were again tough fishing, but the weather was at totally different ends of the spectrum, typical for these northern latitudes. The Thursday was bright sunshine which really extenuated the incredible scenery of this glorious wilderness. Bell 2 is a long way north of Terrace and Smithers, and fishing here really makes you feel in the middle of the wilderness. I can only compare it to fishing in Russia, but as there is dense forest all around you it is certainly possible to see all kinds of wildlife. As we had the light Henry and I worked hard on setting up pictures while Michael proceeded to hook another fish where a small creek flowed into the main river. He had been fishing steadily down the edge and allowing the fly to work right in against the bank just as he was told. The line tightened and slowly he lifted into it thinking he was actually stuck on a rock. However the rock then began to shake its head furiously and a great battle ensued in the strong current. Both fish and Michael gaining line, and then loosing it, but finally JC the guide managed to get a hand on the leader and bring it close to shore. At the last minute as he reached for the tail the fish gave a sudden jink and the barbless hook slipped out and it was gone. It was a shame he did not have the opportunity to have a picture, but the battle had been a good one and JC estimated the fish at about 17 lbs. Michael was ecstatic! A cracking sized steelhead!
In contrast the following days fishing with Geoff Straight, and “young” Geoff, the other guide, the weather was absolutely miserable. It rained hard, the wind turned from the north, and it was not possible to fish for more than 30 minutes at a time without completely loosing feeling in hands and feet. The upper section of the Bell Irving where we were concentrating our efforts at this point now had many leaves coming down the river, but we persevered belligerently, running off to the lunch tent on the bank every so often to go and warm up in front of the wood burning stove. Proper steelhead fishing. The lunches that were provided were always fantastic and consisted of piping hot home made soup, rolls and home made cookies. After lunch we manoeuvred further down the river in the jet boat to a long pool that looked very promising just above a large log jam. I began casting and working my way through the pool while Geoff took Geoff the Younger across to a dead looking channel on the other side. I was about to get my second major lesson in steelhead fishing.
As I worked my way down the shout went up and he had hooked a fish in the dead water. I could not believe it! If I had been Atlantic salmon fishing I would not have even bothered casting a fly into this hole that later I discovered is referred to as a “tank”. Steelhead and some species of Pacific salmon it appears are rather partial to these areas of slack water where they can rest out of the current entirely. The fish was a lovely fresh 8 lber which Geoff Straight duly went over in the boat and netted. Almost as soon as Geoff the Younger started casting he hooked another one! This was a little larger, about 12 lbs. I was intrigued. Geoff the Younger told me afterwards that all he had felt was a tiny plucking at the fly, more like a trout pecking at a nymph, and he had just set the hook. Steep learning curve. It goes to show that fishing can still be good even in pretty adverse conditions. The highlight of that day was to see a huge bull moose cross the river below us as we fished, and also a pack of wolves on the road at first light. Michael had the opportunity to take a day Helli fishing, so he had flown up the junction of the upper Nass and the Damdochax…. And caught another couple of steelhead… Michael was on fire and seemed to be a steelhead magnet!
Bell 2 is a top class operation without a doubt, and I don’t think there are many lodges around the world that can compare in terms of service, comfort and diversity with the helicopters. Geoff Straight runs a tight ship, and he and his guides are excellent. They work very hard to find fish. The season is short from the beginning of September to mid October, so if you are looking to go you need to make a request early as space is at a premium. For someone looking to experience the stunning wilderness and great steelhead fishing while simultaneously being able to relax in extreme comfort in the evenings, this is the place. They also cater to non-fishers who can explore the area with knowledgeable mountain guides and see the substantial wildlife. Please see Bell 2 Lodge for more detail.
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Location:
Bell 2 Lodge
Freshwater:
River and stream fishing
Country:
Canada
Capacity:
8 per week
Season:
Mid March to Mid March
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